We left Ashgabat with a short police convoy and best of all a tail wind which blew us all 120 km into camp about 30 km an hour with huge grins on our faces, a great day cycling. We camped at an architectural site and some spent the evening digging for artifacts where they pitched their tents. The only other good thing to say about desert camps is the stars which have always been beautiful. The rest is desperately seeking shade, sometimes under the truck, counting the hours until supper time and at least being able to dig a hole when you need the loo.
We camp next to the road more often than not so have articulated lorries roaring past us all night, not too restful.After 3 days cycling through mindless desert with barely even a camel to keep us interested we arrived in Mary and visited Merv which is a must see for Silk Road travelers and any visitor to Turkmenistan. Not much remains nor has much been excavated but it is an historical marvel. Over the centuries 4 cities have been built and subsequently destroyed. What makes this place unique is that rather than build on the old foundations because the river had slightly moved direction they build on a new site, so you now have a unique historical resource waiting to be tapped.
Mary was a contrast to Ashgabat as it felt more real, everyone was really friendly coming up to say hello and welcome. We had a really good lunch at the local market where we saw samosa being cooked on the side of a large pot oven. The cook wet one side then slapped it onto the inside of the pot where it stuck to the inside for a few minutes until done, wonderful fresh out of the oven.One day out of Mary the bug caught up with me and a couldn’t cycle. Not much fun riding on a bouncy truck trying not to be sick and keeping your legs crossed. The hotel we were booked into was an old soviet block with revolting bathrooms but even worse there were four people to each room and each bathroom. Thank goodness for the hotel next door this had private bathrooms but a mattress from hell: we both left with spring imprints all over our body.
The next day we the trip to the border and I took some pills to get me through, thank god I did. We left the hotel at 6.30 am and didn’t get through the border until 3.00 pm. It was Sunday and someone at the Turkmenistan border wanted to see a photocopy of a document and said come back tomorrow. It took our guide returning to Turkmenbat waking someone up, taking them to a police station and copying a document before they let us through the barrier. That was only the first of many hurdles but we got through eventually and were all glad to leave Turkmenistan.
Bukhara was wonderful and our hotel was right in the old town walking distance to all the restaurants, sights and shops. What was so odd was the contrast between the last two counties and this one. We were feted in Azerbaijan as honored visitors as tourists were still unusual ; we were regarded with suspicion in Turkmenistan guarded all the time and not allowed to go anywhere by ourselves. Bukhara was packed with European tourists visiting the sights, all the shop keepers spoke several languages and people rode bikes! We walked around the sights, including some beautiful mosques, a madrassah, and the remains of a fortress. We caught up with two little girls on their way home from school; they looked so beautiful in their dresses and white ribbons in their hair. It was a lovely relaxed city and I think everyone enjoyed their stay.It took two days to cycle to Samarkand and two rest days, a novelty we were all looking forward to. Our hotel is a converted disco with gold staircases and mirrors but huge rooms which have allowed us to unpack completely and get organized. Two people are leaving so we have bought their inner tubes and inflatable mattresses but now have to find space for them.
The Registran of Samarkand is so beautiful we both loved it. Three maddrassah’s form three sides of a square and they have been wonderfully restored. The dome of the Tillya Kari Madrassh was so beautiful it was hard to tear yourself away. The night before Sultan Ali, a local celebrity had been in concert in the square, truly one of the greatest backdrops, pity about the music though which was awful. The student cells have been converted into shops where you are constantly invited inside to see goods “cheaper than free”. I was tempted by the wonderful fabrics and ceramics but had a good excuse of not being able to carry anything on a bike. Mike worked on the computer while I visited a carpet factory where I couldn’t resisit temptation and bought a carpet, which we will get shipped home.It’s been such fun these last few days we now have 5 days riding, a rest day in Osh then 6 days cycling then I think we are in China. Lots to look forward to including a very high pass to climb.
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